Tuesday, March 26, 2019

berry wall

1 1/2 oz Bourbon (Wild Turkey 101)
3/4 oz Punt e Mes
1/2 oz Campari
1/4 oz Allspice Dram (Hamilton's)
1 medium Strawberry

Muddle the strawberry in the Campari and allspice dram. Add the rest of the ingredients, stir with ice, and double strain into a rocks glass with a large ice cube. Garnish with an orange twist.

Two Tuesdays ago, I got into discussion with Christine Fernsebner Eslao about Saratoga Springs' role in 19th century cocktail culture when she posted a photo of the Adelphi Hotel and other sites around town. Saratoga Springs was a famous spa, gambling, and horse racing town north of New York City that attracted the sporting and dandy crowd, and it spawned several cocktails such as the Saratoga Cocktail and Saratoga Brace Up from Jerry Thomas and the Saratoga Cocktail from Harry Johnson. Christine replied that this made sense because Berry Wall, an 1880s New York City socialite dubbed the "King of the Dudes," hung out a bit in the town. I discovered that Berry won a dude-off fashion competition there in 1888 by changing outfits 40 times between breakfast and dinner. I figured that his name alone was worthy of a drink tribute. Indeed, the berry aspect made me think of the strawberry-Campari flavor duo from drinks like the Dunderstruck, and I opted for a Boulevardier "man about town" angle.
The Berry Wall sauntered into the senses with an orange and berry aroma. Next, red berry and grape mingled on the sip, and the swallow bet the house with Bourbon, strawberry, bitter orange, and allspice flavors. After enjoying this combination, I discovered that I had probably lifted the Campari, strawberry, and allspice trio concept from the Louanalao, although I originally just recalled how well Campari and allspice worked in the Chester Rapkin and other cocktails when I was considering a final modifying ingredient.

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