Two Thursdays ago, I gave a talk entitled "Cheers to Heritage: The Cultural Significance of Cocktails." The whole thing came about when bar guests from the hotel next to Josephine came in one night back in June 2023 and we talked about cocktails. One of them mentioned that she inherited her parents' signed copies of a cocktail book and the associated cooking book published circa 1910. When she described how her parents got them signed at Harvard, I figured that the Boston connection and the time frame could be author Louis Muckensturm. That night I went home and made the
Fernet Cocktail from
Louis' Mixed Drinks 1906. When they came in the next evening, I showed them the photo of the drink with the Cocktail Kingdom reproduction book in the background, and that cover triggered a lot of excitement. I was soon asked if I would be interested in giving a talk for a historic society in Colorado, and I said sure and handed them my card. At Drink, I frequently was asked if I would be willing to bartend their bachelor party in California or similar, and I would always hand them my business card knowing that I would never hear from them again. However, the preservation society contacted me in January 2024, and we honed in on a topic by June.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi93INXaK19Kft_HPBcy3VC7SXnjBSa3gNOVJ6VbQO-Nci3MwMo9tqbT5Y6N3FaUrTJhxNXMHTgRzLnLn52_8qahIkYuzg0g2R5HPS4I16WVBE4mOgqb9hu_AiiLIplCKdh2CebPJaXLm8JMS5JRSUs2jwA8hNiYEC1iw7eXqDCoMfDuAWPG51wSaTWGky1/s320/muckensturm_signature.jpg)
The talk I gave at the Colorado Preservation conference in Colorado Springs was on cocktails being a vital part of our intangible heritage akin to cultural dances, historical buildings, Belgian beer styles, architecture, and certain foods like labneh. This talk included cocktails as a tie-in to culture, community, tradition, and history that are passed down from generation to generation, how this was almost lost during Prohibition and the Dark Ages, and three figures that helped record to preserve cocktail history or restore cocktails and bartending professionalism to their rightful place (Charles H. Baker Jr., Dale DeGroff, Brother Cleve). One of the cocktails that I discussed was the Saratoga – actually two cocktails both published a year apart in the 3rd edition of
Jerry Thomas 1887 and the 2nd edition of
Harry Johnson 1888 (but not in the 1876 and 1882 editions, respectively). I looked into the development of cocktail culture by way of horse racing and gambling at this mineral springs resort town north of both Manhattan and Albany that was built up due to the North choking out horseracing venues in the South during the Civil War.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRa2SuCzC63NZ12ZiQAqBaRNFuW0YSYplmmNrxL-C9aUx5JCJBQOTtoKUgyLNeiXTtoeNH5DsjEvo75SWsj2DAajF2zdiWXWquzHA4_HMpKovCoY-MfT62Y1HdpVGzVuSbFQ-ZORVEAugrXIzPb-929fcZwwp5J1JBl1E9j3PAtXa6pXLA6z0Fj39QM7_y/s320/fredcoloradotalk_400.jpg)
I also talked about characters that brought this about like John Morrissey, the bare-knuckle boxer who got involved in gambling through being a casino bouncer that led him to open the race track in Saratoga plus casinos including the one where the Jerry Thomas Saratoga was created; Wondrich points out that Thomas and Morrissey knew each other from their time in Manhattan. I also covered the rather colorful King of the Dudes, Evander Berry Wall, who won an epic dude-off that had 40 outfit changes between breakfast and dinner in Saratoga in 1888 – the same year that Harry Johnson’s Saratoga recipe was published. I also covered modern drinks that looked back at historical moments that tie into a community and sense of history and place like the
1919 Cocktail created by Ben Sandrof at Drink about the Great Molasses Flood that happened at another stretch of Boston Harbor a mile and a half away. And ice cream drinks created in Colorado for Temperance (the Black Cow) and in spite of Prohibition (Aspen Crud or boozy milk shakes) that are still enjoyed today.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc8TwV_GOnS5lBDokB64o9dJpADvnI8u1PVvuMN-PG4aRCcuAzEM0ZoXfrExO3T0R4c-f7q5QbvYZFi61dJb1h0o-Jbp80fQhWDndvo_Hl7r6QNFvQsJUgrE-978b1_ztDnmC1NQpXtP7JDBmAuia86FbUR-m7F04iBEch_3omxuSlyWU6kMW0NR7JoV7b/s320/brothercleve_slide.jpg)
If you would like to view the slidedeck and read about this and other details, I uploaded a
PDF of the 44 slides on my Google Drive.