1/2 oz Jamaican Rum (Smith & Cross)
1/4 oz Apricot Liqueur (Rothman & Winter)
3/4 oz Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Cane Syrup or Rich Simple Syrup (2:1 Syrup)
1 dash Angostura Bitters
Shake with ice and strain into a coupe glass.
Aurora now had left her saffron bed,
And beams of early light the heav'ns o'erspread,
When, from a tow'r, the queen, with wakeful eyes,
Saw day point upward from the rosy skies.
Lime ShrubLast Friday, Andrea and I finally went to Journeyman restaurant in Somerville. We had been planning to go for my birthday back in July until a car plowing into their façade shut them down for a few weeks. Once I heard that they had finally reopened, I planned a visit that very first week. Currently, the drink list at the restaurant is an Old Fashioned bar where combinations of spirits and bitters can be requested; moreover, there is a short list of batched drinks. In the near future, Journeyman will be opening a 36 craft cocktail bar in an adjacent space so perhaps the restaurant's drink repertoire will grow accordingly. For a start, I asked for one of the batched cocktails, the Spring Hill; while the caption was "Spring in Somerville," it is actually the name of one of the seven hills in the city. Between the jasmine green tea, the Chartreuse, and the lime shrub, I was instantly drawn to this recipe.
• 12 Limes (mandolined thinly)
• 4 oz Water
• 16 oz Cider Vinegar
Simmer for 5 minutes, pressing on limes often to extract juice.
• 600 gram Sugar (20 oz)
Add sugar and keep on low heat, stirring occasionally for 5 minutes. Cool completely, strain, and bottle.
Blackbeard's Ghost from The Grog LogIn making the second drink, Brother Cleve stuck to the original recipe with a few exceptions. In the rums, he opted for a Virgin Island instead of a Puerto Rican rum, and for the Demerara rum, he increased the amount, well, because Cleve likes Demerara rum. Instead of bottled Sour Mix, Cleve made an equal parts lemon, lime, and simple syrup combination; Tiare of A Mountain of Crushed Ice took a similar route and made a 1 part lemon, 1 part lime, 2 parts simple syrup mix which would be preferable for people seeking a sweeter drink. Other than that, Brother Cleve stuck to Berry's recipe in this second drink. The end result was a drink that was rather orange-driven and thus smooth. Cleve commented that this effect is more stereotypical of Tiki drinks, and I noted that it brought out the apricot more (despite there being less liqueur in this version) and diminished the spice notes on the swallow. Indeed, the Cleve version was closer to a more modern cocktail and the Berry recipe was more in tune with the smoothness of the Tiki genre; regardless, both drinks were fine tributes to the Blackbeard's Galley.
• 1 1/2 oz Light Puerto Rican Rum (Cruzan)
• 1/2 oz Demerara Rum (3/4 oz El Dorado 3)
• 1 oz Orange Juice
• 2 oz Sour Mix (2/3 Lemon:2/3 Lime:2/3 Simple Syrup)
• 1/2 oz Falernum (Fee's)
• 1/2 oz Apricot Liqueur (Bols)
• 2 dash Angostura Bitters
Shake with crushed ice and pour into a glass.
Arrack Foam: Mix one quart of sour cream with half a pint of arrack, and four ounces of lump-sugar; beat to foam, and serve it in glasses.In parsing the recipe, luckily I had advice from bartenders John Gertsen and Will Thompson of Drink. When they made this at the behest of the Dude Kicker kids, they opted for crème fraîche for the sour cream. They also chose to foam up the drink using a nitrous charger. While I kept the crème fraîche idea, I opted for a cobbler shaker and a balled up Hawthorne strainer spring for the foaming. Moreover, I decided to scale back eight fold to make two servings especially since crème fraîche is quite rich:
• 4 oz Crème FraîcheFor a garnish (despite one not being listed by William), I went with borage, bee balm, and nasturtium flowers which are all edible (the nasturium flowers were garnishing the glass, not the foam).
• 1 oz Batavia Arrack
• 1/2 oz Sugar
Stir the crème fraîche and sugar in a shaker until the sugar is incorporated. Add Batavia Arrack and a balled up Hawthorne strainer spring, shake vigorously, and spoon into chilled cups or glasses. Garnish lavishly with flowers or berries of the season, and serve with a small spoon.
Quebranta grape - the Macho manOne of the drinks served was Eastern Standard's Kevin Martin's Carnivale that I had written about when one his fellow bartenders made me the drink. Another was from Rachel Sergi of the Jack Rose in Washington, D.C. Her drink, the Pink Pout, utilized Macchu Pisco's La Diablada Pisco that is a combination of a Quebranta as a base nonaromatic and Moscatel and Italia for aromatics. The Pink Pout worked great as a name as the aromatic grapes put the drink in the realm of Sofia Loren and the 15 year old coquettish girl.
Moscatel grape - the Sofia Loren
Torontel grape –the Metrosexual
Italia grape – the 15 year old coquettish girl that wears a lot of perfume
Mollar Grape - the Dandy
Side-Car Cocktail from Harry's ABC of Mixing CocktailsThese were the three recipes Hess proffered and he did not cover the sugared rim that is commonly associated with the drink today. Not only is the sugared rim not in the original, Embury insisted that the drink received no decoration save for a twist of lemon if desired. Hess related his initial struggles with the Sidecar recipes he found for they called for bottled sour mix, and the resultant drinks were quite unsatisfying to him. And perhaps quite unsatisfying for Embury which motivated him to write his book.
1 part Brandy
1 part Cointreau (Triple Sec)
1 part Lemon Juice
Side Car De Luxe from Embury's The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks
8 part Cognac or Armagnac
1 part Cointreau of Triple Sec
2 part Lemon Juice
Sidecar as served at the Robert Hess household
4 part Brandy
2 part Cointreau
1 part Lemon
Brandy : Triple Sec : LemonInterestingly, this matched my preference for equal parts of triple sec to lemon juice. Moreover, if you were in Boston and requested a Sidecar at Eastern Standard and at Drink, this recipe would be between Eastern's 2:1:1 and Drink's 2:1/2:1/2 structures with this average being closer to Eastern's.
77 : 77 : 77 Original
168 : 21 : 42 Embury
132 : 66 : 33 Hess
2.48 : 1.08 : 1 Average
El CaminoSpeaking of a classic feel, I also wanted to mention the drink of Trina Sturm of Trina's Starlight Lounge. Her El Camino utilized an interesting Yucatán honey and anise-flavored liqueur called Xtabentún. Although it is fortified with rum instead of tequila, the end result was very much in line with a Mexican Rusty Nail, albeit one with some extra anise and chocolate notes instead of heather and peat ones in the Scotch-Drambuie version.
• 2 1/2 oz Chinaco Reposado Tequila
• 1/2 oz D'Aristi Xtabentún Honey Liqueur
• 2 eye droppers Bittermens Mole Bitters
Stir with ice and strain into a rocks glass.